Terracotta Wonders in Xi'an

2005

Xi'an

On my arrival in Xi'an I was picked up by the hostel bus and whisked away to my nearby hostel. I pre-booked through my previous hostel to avoid any language problems. I, coincidentally, ended up in the same dormitory as three Swedish lads I met whilst in Beijing. We planned our day trip to the Terracotta Warriors and headed off the next day.

Five Seconds of Fame

One chilly morning I arose and headed down to the bar/restaurant to see what was happening. I got chatting to a TV news reporter from one of the local Xi'an stations. We talked, and talked and drank tea and talked some more. One of the Swedish fellers, Elias, joined me and we ended up being invited out to following day for them to film a mini-news story about foreingers in China for the Chinese New Year. I was going to make my debut on TV in China! In front of a local crowd of possibly 6 million!

We met the journalist and her cameraman the next morning and took a taxi to a local Tao temple. They filmed us looking around it and did a mini-interview with Elias. We headed off to a sidestreet and found ourselves in a courtyard with a guy practising caligraphy. Caligraphy is huge in China. We were invited to join in and write symbols for our names (phonetically translated).

I was able to watch the final edit on the news programme the following night. I managed to get a bit of it on my digital camera video mode. I won't be able to post it here, so a photo will have to do. Note the cameraman!

This was a unique experience I'm certian the majority of travellers haven't had. Good fun. We went for a meal with the Journalist girl and her cameraman rounding off a great day.

The next thing I know its a farewell to the Swedes and off to Chengdu, home of the Pandas.

Panda-monium in Chengdu

Chengdu

Another hellishly long train journey and I arrived in Chengdu. China astounded me in that every city I visited lived millions and millions of people. I think the population of Chengdu was around the 6 million mark again. The reason I went here should be somewhat obvious to you by now.

They were very cute. A little sedate at the best of times. Sleep. Eat. Sleep some more. Eat for an hour or two. Etc. Luckily we got there during the eat period. The light isn't so good in the photos as it was just after dawn on a wintry Chinese morning. This centre was one of the leading in the country, and the world, in successful Panda breeding. I learnt why Pandas are becoming extict. In summary, they don't like to procreate beacause they spend all of their time and energy chewing through bamboo shoots, which gives them just enough energy to chew some more when they wake up after their nap. Basically, they are the laziest creatures on the planet, and they simply can't be bothered to have sex anymore. Simple as that!

They are, however, beautiful things. And so aesthetically accomodating for me and my fellow colour-blind folk.

Chinese New Year in Kunming

Kunming

My next destination was Kunming. I was in full swing of my China experience and loving it. The challenge of booking a train ticket. Getting off the train at what, I hoped, was the stop I was planning on. Finding accomodation. It was all becoming a lot more manageable and fun.

I was recommended a hostel by Chris, a nice Canadian chap I met whilst in Chengdu. Once settled in at the hostel I did my usual walk around, impression gathering stompt. Kunming looked nice and the weather was far nicer than the icy north. I was heading the the direction of the tropics once again.

Chinese New Year approached fast and before I knew it, celebrations were underway. Big decorations all over the streets. Fireworks. Revellers all obsessed with the ;ashings of good luck that the year of the rooster could and hopefully would bring. Chinese New Years Day saw millions, well probably all 4 million, of Kunming residents fill the streets from morning until night. The sales were on and spirits were high. Just look at the chaos in this picure.



I stopped in the central square to allow the traditional dragon show mesmerise me. Drums were beaten. The energy was so apparent throughout the scores and scores of people.

It was a short stay in Kunming before heading off to Dali.

Picturesque Dali

Dali

Dali was a comparatively short train journey from Kunming. Word of mouth brought me here. I heard it was a beautiful little lakeside town full of raw, small-town charm. I was hoping to escape the city madness I dealt with in all of my previous destinations. I escaped it.

Dali was a great town squeezed between a mountain and a lake. It had a 'Countryside China' feeling about it. Hiring a bike and going for a nice exploratory cycle was the agenda for the next day or so. The winds were blustery and the sky looked angry, giving Dali a powerfully natural feeling. I felt Mother Nature was close by.

Classic

This picture was taken en route to the lookout from behind Dali's temples. A lookout which showcased the town, the lake and the undulating green landscape.

After a realxing stay in Dali it was off to another little secret. Lijiang.

Quaint Little Lijiang

Lijiang

I took the bus to Lijiang with Alon of Israel. I knew nothing about this town before coming here. Most travellers head to Lijiang to visit the nearby Tiger Leaping Gorge. Sounds a little like a movie title I know. My 30 day visa was rapidly approaching its end, so I had to leave Lijiang not long after arriving.

The spirit in the town was good. New Year celebrations were still in full swing. It was a great opportunity to meet the very colourful tibetan people, who seemed to have a moderately strong presence here.

Before I knew it, I was back on the bus to Kunming to plan my exit into Laos. I spent a day sorting out my Laos visa and organising my route through Jinghong to the border crossing at Mengla. I met a nice couple of Italain girls on the bus to Jinghong. I hung out with them for a day before making my dash for the border. Once again I was leaving on the final day of my visa. My Dad taught me well in getting 'value for money!'

Laouch in Luang Nam Tha

Laos

I arrived in Laos with a Bang, so-to-speak. After crossing the border into Boten, on the Laotian side, I headed for the nearest town of a respectable size. Well, it was more a case of the busses not going anywhere else. Luang Nam Tha was a huge cultural shake up after spending my 30 days in China.

The weather was nice and hot again. People understood my language and it was a chunk and a half cheaper than China.

I met a Canadian feller, Aaran, and headed out for a bit of a bicycle trek to a waterfall. Upon my attempt to cross a bridge with a hole in it I cycled off the side of the bridge and fell at high speed stright into the ground head first. I was seeing stars for about five minutes before dragging myself up off the floor and heading back to my room to rest. Here's the drop. I landed on that slightly softer grassy patch. Note the lack of 'bridge' on the top of the downslope.



A day or two after I headed out for an exploratory bike mission again with Aaran. We cycled through a village and were invited in by a few of the villagers for drinks. One house was having a bit of a bash. They were all wasted. We were encouraged to drink Lao Rice Whiskey. Home or locally made (next door). The village was surrounded by rice paddies. Green, so green.

"Left, or right? "

I took a bus to Muang Xay with an American feller called Mike from Washington DC.

Udomxay & Muang Khoua

Muang Xay

I decided to head east to Udomxay, as I heard this was a good hub to plan my onward tour. The bus there was an interesting one! I bought my ticket and boarded the bus. Found a spare seat and sat in it, only to be told that someone was already sitting there and that I should find another one. So I sat in another one only to be told the same thing. That was the last 'free' seat so it looked as if I didn't have a seat for this journey. Next thing I know, they are pulling a white plastic garden chair up into the aisle and there we go, my seat has arrived! Every corner we went around the flimsy legs benheath me buckled and I would fall into the lap of the person either side of me. It was quite comical to begin with, but after an hour or so of winding roads the joke was wearing thin.

I arrived in Udomxay and shared a room with Mike from DC. There wasn't a huge amount to do there so we decided to head straight on the next day. Udomxay was such a non-event I don't have a single photo to even prove I was there! Muang Khoua was the next destination.

Muang Khoua

Another bus ride. Jouneys had become more than tolerable by this point. After my 42 hours to Beijing everything else felt like a drive to the local shop. The bus filled up along the way with local tribespeople. It got quite crammed at points but was never too irritating.

Muang Khoua was chilled. Not in the temperature sense! A little town on the Nam Ou river. The river was the lifeline for every settlement along it. Boats would come and go all day long. Imports in and exprts out.

Long Boats and Long Grass

Mike and I decided a little river travel would be a good way to take in some scenery. After a short stay in Muang Khoua we headed on again.

My time in Laos was limited to two weeks due to my visa. I was on the move a lot.

Our next stop was Nong Khiaw.

Muang Ngoi & Nong Khiaw

Muang Ngoi

Great names huh? This really was a whistle-stop tour of Laos. I never spent more than a night or two in each place. Muang Ngoi was just one night. Another small village with some nice scenery around.

Nong Khiaw

This was the nicest place I'd visited in Laos so far. Another village built on a river. A few shops, a few places to stay and eat and not too much else. I was still hanging out with Mike. We teamed up with a great Canadain guy called Eric and headed for the caves. We explored the caves for a bit and then headed for the river to relax. The river was a wide, moderately fast-flowing shallow channel. Good for swimming.



A flag hung proudly outside the caves

Lively Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang

After bidding fairwell to Mike and Eric I jumped on the bus to Luang Prabang. The bus was built to carry 15 max. I think there were a good 25 of us. I know what a battery chicken feels like in the back of an articulated trailer.

Lots of bums not so many seats

Once arriving in Luang Prabang I bumped into Jenny. A geordie girl I had met firstly in Hoi An, Vietnam and then again in Hanoi. We hung out for a bit.

I also met a group of English revellers. I hung out with them for a day or two. One day we decided to head for the waterfalls. Good waterfalls they were too.

This is a picture of a guy they used to attract people to the falls. Looks a little like me don't you think.



In a hut just outside the entrance to the waterfalls we found this tiger. Behind bars and very bored by the looks of things. We made a small donation towards his upkeep, signed the visitors book and on we went.


Caged and Bored


Restocking

I took yet another boat to Pakbeng on the other side of the river from Chiang Rai border entry. Pakbang didn't have a lot to offer. I spent a night there before making the river crossing into Thailand. I wasn't planning on spending a huge amount of time there, but very much looking forward to seeing Northern Thailand.

Back in Thai, First stop Pai

Pai

It felt good to be back in the familiar surroundings of Thailand. I have to say that Thailand is without a doubt the most comfortable place to travel in Southeast Asia. Everything is there neccessary to travel easily and cheaply.

I crossed into Chiang Rai across the river from Laos and headed in a van texi thing to Chiang Mai. I spent a night or two in Chiang Mai before taking the bus to Pai. Whilst in Chiang Mai I ran into Eric again walking through a busy market. Eric was keen to ride up to Pai on motorbike and meet us there. We had a crew in the making.

Pai is a smallish town but very popular with travellers. I was full of guest houses and eateries. They even had a Seven/11!

Pai had plenty t do despite its size. Nearby waterfalls, hot springs and canyons were the main attraction. Each day was spent visiting one of these things, or even a couple on an adventurous day.

One day Eefje (Holland), Tony and Jen (Western Australia) and myself cycled off on a bit of a 'Tour de Pai'. We wanted to see the waterfalls. So off we went. It was 6 km each way. I hadn't worked my body that hard for some time, so it was pretty gruelling at times. We made it and it was worth it.



A Bhuddist Monument en route to the waterfall

As we were cycling back into town, someone clever decides we should cycle another 12 km round trip to the canyon for sunset! Silly me agreed. So off we went. Eric had the right idea hiring a motorbike and using horsepower to get there ache-free!

There wasn't a huge amount to see or do at the canyon so Eefje and I decided to 'make' some photos like this one.




The hot springs were well worth it. Could have done with being a bit cooler. But you don't sit in a hot spring to cool down, I guess. Whilst on out way there, this time on motorbike, we pass a rather slow taxi, take a look.



Don't tread on me


From left to right: Sarah (Canada), Eric and Stu (Australia)

Easy Riders Eric and I cruised to Lod Cave one morning. A good 60 km away this was one awsome mini-roadtrip. The scenery all the way was great. Meandering roads. Hills. Green as far as the eye could see. This picture was taken at a stop-off halfway there. We bought banana cake and an energy drink called M150, apparently stronger than Redbull. It didn't touch me!


Easy Rider

Much time was spent in hammock with Sangsom and Coke. Eric was awesome on guitar, so many an evening was spent singing and drinking to excess. Great memories. Some of the best memories I have, and thats saying alot. Oh and I grew a beard too.


Aviators and Beard

One more quick visit to the waterfalls and hot springs, for good measure, and then 'The Crew' headed en mass to Mae Hong Son. The land of the Karen Longneck tribes. Here is 'The Crew'.


Left to Right: Eefje (NL), Sharon (Aus), Eric (Can), Byron (Aus) and Lucas (US)

Mae Hong Son Madness

Mae Hong Son

We spent only a couple of nights in Mea Hong Son, enough time to see what everyone comes here to see. That makes it sound like a lot of people come here. For the record, there isn't too many tourists here. A short motorbike ride out of town is the Karen Tribes village. The Karen people are Bhurmese, but Bhurma doesn't want them, so nice Thailand lets them live just inside the border.

There a two Karen Tribes there. The Long Necks, and the Big Ears. Honestly, thats what they are called. Firstly we walked around the Long Neck village. We had to pay a small donation to the villagers to come in, but it was well worth it. What a fascinating place this was.



They coil metal around their necks from and early age. Every year they increase the length of the coil until they have a supremely long neck. Only the women partake in this tradition. The longer the neck, the higher up the hierarchy they sit. They have to keep the coil on permanently, as without it their necks wouldn't be strong enough to hold the weight of their head. This woman had the longest neck in town. She was great on her homemade guitar too.



They were all so friendly and welcoming. One young girl spoke 7 different languages fluently and had visits from big names such as Sandra Bullock and Bill Clinton. They had the photos to prove it.

Next I took a walk following signs to the 'Karen Big Ear Tribe'. The village had a great feel about it. So enclosed and protected from the horrors of the modern world. All the villagers played contently.

I stopped and chatted to this lady.



She was chewing on some Beetle nut (Betelnut), a stimulant very popular in Southeast Asia. Its a ground nut in a leaf of the Betelnut plant. Tobacco can be added for an extra kick. I was intrigued by this, as I had seen it so often. So I asked for a sample. She obliged happily. I chewed and chewed and chewed. Nothing. Not a sausage. However, it did give me bright red saliva which has to be spat from time to time due to build up. Swallowing isn't a good option as it tastes foul. Not something I would do again, but interesting all the same. Here's a snap of me and my bright red mouth!

Everybody back to Chiang Mai

We headed back to Chiang Mai for a night and then 'The Crew' fragmented. Before heading off in our different directions we visited the Wat on the mountainside. Its name I forget. I'll have to dig out the diary again. An amazing collection of Bhuddas, Nagas and other statues. Gold, silver, emerald (green glass) all around a big pointed temple.



In terms of fragmentation, I head to Bangkok with Lucas to get a connecting bus to Koh Phangan. Eric stayed a little longer as did the others. This shot was taken just before our emotional farewell.

Back in Bangkok

Lucas and I took the bus to Bangkok, 12 hour luxury big bus. Easy. Spent a night there before heading on to Koh Phangan. Thailand is well endowed in the beautiful island department.

Party Time

Koh Phangan

Warning: Many Sunset pictures follow...

I guess you could say I 'let my hair down' when I arrived on Koh Phangan. Its not that I hadn't been partying previously, its a case if the partying increased ten-fold when I arrived!

Koh Phangan is a small island out in the Gulf of Thailand. It is home to the famous full-moon party, which coincidentally happens every full moon of the year. I was there in time for the March one. The original plan was to go to the party, recover and then leave a few days later. How silly Lucas and I were in thinking that would happen.

I got a room with Lucas, spending a whole pound sterling everynight for the pleasure. We were lucky to get the room, as everything sells out around full moon.

I began my obsession with taking photographs of Sunsets. How my addiction grew from here on is something that remains to be seen.















Koh Phangan's action is centred around Had Rin. A peninsular on the southern tip of the island has a beach on either side. Aptly named sunrise and sunset beach. Sunrise beach is the party beach, packed with bars and more bars. Each one selling Samgsom buckets by the shed-load. You pay 100 Baht (1.50 GBP) and they put a whole half bottle of Samgsom in along with the statutory Redbull and Coke.

This is sunrise beach at night. You can see it looks quite lively.















I didn't take the camera out for the full moon party. There is no way it would have survived, so I didn't take my chances. The party was awesome. I went to one in 1999 when I came to Thailand for a month after my first year at uni. Drank Sangsom at the bungalows before heading out to the beach. Every club and bar is on full steam ahead. Music at ear shattering volume. Techno, House, Drum & Bass, Trance and everything else. We partied all night, literally, watching the sunrise the following morning. Daylight was the signal for bed. A jolly good time was had by all!

Most nights were spent at the beach. Most days were too, come to think of it. Everynight was a big night here. It really is a party island.

Fire-spinning is a hobby that every man and his dog do on the beach at night. Mainly Thais, but the occassional try-hard tourist has a go. Some of them have immence skill, throwing the burning tapers to eachother across the beach.















Whilst in Bangkok we met an American dude called Steve aka Captain America, due to the chiseled face and long blonde hair. He travelled with us to Koh Phangan and the three of us hung out for the duration. There was a bit of an American theme going on with the company I kept whilst on the island. There was a guy from Rhode Island staying in the same bungalows, plus a great girl, Cindi, from Chicago.

Steve got a night playing some Trance at one of the clubs on the beach, Zoom was the name, if my memory serves me correctly. This is Steve playing at Zoom!















Lucas and I ended up spending two whole weeks on Koh Phangan, a little longer than planned. Everyday was too much fun to even think of leaving. The reason we had to leave in the end was our visas were almost up and needed renewing fast!

We had to make a 'visa run' to Ranong, Bhurma for the night before continuing on the tour.

Pop into Bhurma

Visa Run

Lucas and I were forging a formidable friendship since joining forces. We had to leave Thailand! So off we went, to Bhurma. A quick hour in another country was enough to re-enter Thailand on a brand new 30 day visa! Didn't really see enough of Bhurma to make a rounded comment about it. It looked crazy. We were harrassed as soo as we set foot on land. We took a quick tour, picking up cheap supplies, like Gin, and headed back to out boat and back to Thailand!

It was straight onto a bus heading south along the west coast of Thailand to Khao Lak. We were expecting the worst in terms of Tsunami fallout, Khao Lak was the worst hit.

The Tsunami Aftermath

We arrived at Khao Lak just after sundown. Lucas and I were the only two to get off. I jumped off the bus onto wet grass. 'The grass is wet?' surely the water isn't still soaking into the ground? It had just rained.

We spent the next hour or so looking for a room. Strange, everywhere was full. But where were all the people? The town was empty. Shops boarded up. Lights out. No life anywhere. It felt like a ghost town. Eventually we found a room and took a walk down to the beach. It was dark. We found a path and followed it. We were walking through a desolate space. I had the feeling that there should have been some builidngs here. We were closer to the water now. Still no buildings. We decided it would be better to explore by daylight and headed back.

The following day, after breakfast, we headed back to the beach. The destruction was far more apparent and truly shocking. This was 3 months after the tragedy and still the remains of hotels, guest houses and everything else lay in a million peices on the floor. The occassional flip-flop, sun hat, even this kids toy bear, no owner.



I found it hard to imagine what it must have been like to be standing on the beach when that first wave hit. I've seen amatuer footage since and its not comfortable viewing. It was a truly horiffic day for many asian countries. I guess I'm lucky that I wasn't standing on this beach three months previous.



















The raised foundations of this building were all that survived. The Thais didn't ever imagine something like this would happen, obviously, so the buildings were made only to withstand a light sea breeze. The wave just blew everything over, like a deck of cards, as it passed over.















The initial plan to come to Khao Lak was to book up a dive trip to the Similan Islands for some of the best diving in Asia. After seeing this, our priorities switched to wanting to help.

We witnessed the most beautiful sunset I've ever seen that evening. The colours were more vivid and the desolate scenery added to the immaculate spectacle. It was ironic that such a beautiful scene could come from this scene of destruction.




























That evening we went to the bar opposite our place. It was full of volunteers from all over the world relaxing after another long day of rebuilding. We got talking and asked if we could help out. They told us to be ready the following morning for pick-up.

So off we went. The work site was a new village being built to replace a village that was completely wiped out leaving every one of its inhabitants homeless.